Shimba Hills from Mombasa: A Day in the Coastal Forest

Shimba Hills National Reserve rises behind Kenya's south coast: coastal rainforest and open grassland on high ground, green in a way the coast itself is not.

It is the closest real safari to the beach hotels, and it is the one to choose if you have a single free day.

What makes it different

Most people picture Kenya as open plains. Shimba is not that. It is forest — layered, humid and dense in places — with grassland between.

That changes how you see wildlife. You are looking into vegetation rather than across distance, so sightings are closer but less frequent. It rewards patience and a good guide.

Sable antelope

Shimba Hills is the reserve in Kenya most associated with sable antelope, and they are what most visitors come hoping to see. They are large, dark and unmistakable when you find them.

Like everything else wild, they are not guaranteed.

Elephants and everything else

Elephants move through the forest and out into the grassland. Buffalo, bushbuck, colobus monkeys and a long list of forest birds are all resident. Birders do particularly well here.

Sheldrick Falls

The other half of the day is the walk to the falls: a guided descent with a ranger through forest to a waterfall and a pool at the bottom of a valley, then the climb back out.

Be realistic about this. It is a proper walk in both directions, the path can be slippery after rain, and the climb back is the harder half. Most reasonably mobile people manage it comfortably — but if you are unsure, tell us before you book and we will give you a straight answer.

Wear closed shoes with grip. Bring swimwear if you want to get into the pool.

Views to the ocean

From the escarpment on a clear day you can see the Indian Ocean. It is a strange and good feeling to look at the sea from the middle of a forest with elephants in it.

Practical notes

• Park fees are set by Kenya Wildlife Service, are payable separately, and change. Ask for the current figure.
• The ranger fee for the Sheldrick Falls walk is separate again.
• Weather. The hills catch rain the coast does not. Bring a light layer.
• Insects. Repellent is worth having.

Shimba or Tsavo?

Different trips, not better and worse.

Shimba is forest, close, and about sable and elephants at short range. Tsavo East is big open country, a much longer day, and the classic safari image — red elephants on red earth.

If you have one day and want less driving, take Shimba. If you have a night to spare, take Tsavo as an overnight.

See the Shimba Hills Safari →